Wednesday, February 4, 2015

On the Seventh Day of Christmas

...my bestie gave to me,
lights around the big city.

There's just no shortage of Christmas decorations in a city like New York. Y'know that line in Silver Bells that goes, "even the lights blink a bright red and green"? It's like that. So, before dinner on Saturday evening, we cruised the grounds of the Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts, hoping to get a photo (or 30) of the Christmas tree that sits over the fountain during the holidays.

But it was not there.
I have Googled the heck out of "Lincoln Center Christmas Tree 2014" and while it appears they had one, it was certainly not in the traditional spot. Shana thinks they may have moved it closer to the road. This year, in place of the fountain was...a fountain. So, we practiced our night water photography while Neal
well, waited. He got really good at waiting. Although the Army has made him really good at waiting, too.

We played with settings...

and angles...

And then Shana snapped one of my most favorite pictures of me ever. (Which is quite the compliment as I'm an only child and there are loads of pictures of me.)

Finally, it was time for dinner. Shana had booked us a table at The Smith Restaurant, across the street from the Lincoln Center. It was probably one of the best meals I ate all weekend. If you would like to drool over your keyboard a bit this morning, here's the menu. But really, just 5 words: blue cheese fondue potato chips
We ate every.single.one.of.them.
And now, most likely, Shana is going to read this, get an insatiable craving and start texting me pictures of her fresh, piping hot bowl of chips as soon as they open the doors for lunch. Life is so unfair.
Three more words: Brooklyn Blackout Cake...
served with a side of malted milkshake. Looking at this now, I honestly have no idea how the 3 of us managed to share it. I credit the chips and a delectable dinner that left just enough space for 1/3 of this divine dessert. I want this again. Right now. 

After dinner, we were all full and, if we were being honest, a little on the miserable side. So, we decided to walk the city. The Time Warner Center, a multi-level shopping mall at Columbus Circle, had constructed a lights-with-music-accompaniment Christmas display. Titled Holiday Under the Stars, it featured twelve 14-foot stars that hung from the ceiling of the 150-foot Great Room. The stars slowly changed colors in unison with one another and a collection of musical Christmas favorites, such as Cool Yule by Louis Armstrong, Let It Snow by Lena Horne and several pieces by the Jazz Orchestra of Lincoln Center. 

 Creepy silhouetted mannequins in the background courtesy of the Armani store...

In general, I'm not a fan of malls. I think they are giant shrines to capitalism and American greed. But I do love the way these colorful lights were reflected in the Boss store windows...

As I wrap up this post, I realize I may have accidentally combined 2 "days of Christmas" into 1. Whoopsie. So, there's a very real chance there will only be 11 days of Christmas. Oh well....perhaps on the 12th day we all rested.





Tuesday, February 3, 2015

On the Sixth Day of Christmas

...my bestie gave to me,
holiday market shopping.

According to Shana, when the first whiff of Christmas sweeps through the air (sometimes before the first sighting of Santa, bringing up the rear of the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade), little holiday markets begin popping up all over the city. I thought perhaps "all over the city" was an exaggeration. But after realizing that we were not passing the same market on our treks across downtown, I understood that they really are everywhere. Each market boasts handcrafted goods and food, all from New York. Artists of all kinds, from chocolatiers to photography featuring the artist's son's stuffed animals, set up shop for the month of December in these markets. Each 10'x10' white canvas tent houses original art and, usually, the artist who can explain the process, answer questions about ingredients and help you choose the perfect gift. December in New York City can be quite unforgiving, with blustery winds and freezing rain or snow, but Shana swears they are out, in the bitter cold and the sunny heat waves, for the entire month.

This is the description (via www.nyctrip.com) given for the Union Square Holiday Market, which was our first stop:

Date: November 20-December 24, 2014
Over 100 merchants are on hand to bring you the most unique gifts available. The Union Square Holiday Market is the place to do your holiday shopping. Some of the items you may find this year include: Hand-blown glass housewares; Local, handmade leather belts; Bags and accessories made from recycled plastic; A variety of handmade jewelry; Gloves, hats, Tibetan crafts and more!
There will also be nibbles and noshes throughout the market. Dig into German delights, both sweet and savory treats. Top things off with a hot apple cider or cappuccino to stay warm. There are so many beautiful things to browse and relish!

Hours: : Monday–Friday 11am-8pm; Saturday 10am-8pm; Sunday 11am-7pm; on December 24 market closes at 4pm
Location: Bryant Park, 40th to 42nd Street between 5th and 6th Avenue

And let me tell you...the smells coming from that German delights tent...holy streusel...
I don't have any pictures of this market because I have a "no photos unless I'm going to buy something" rule when it comes to someone's handcrafted art. (This is an extension of my "no photos unless I'm going to tip the street performer" rule. I have a lot of rules.) And although I did end up buying this fabulous print by EdieArt


by that point, we were rushing out to make a dinner reservation. 
However, the next day, we stopped by the holiday market in Grand Central Station (where, again, I found delectable treats for the babysitting grandmothers back home), and I have these pictures from Shana to share. 



Although the Grand Central Holiday Market is much smaller than the one at Union Square, there was still a wide variety of art and food from which to choose. Scarves, jewelry, paintings, photography, ornaments...it was all unique and very beautiful. 
 
If you are an artist wanting to purchase a booth for a holiday market, it's not as simple as filling out an application and handing over your check. To keep the number of vendors selling each type of craft balanced (i.e. avoiding a market featuring 20 jewelry designers and 2 blown glass artists), the organization reviews the applications and chooses vendors based on what they sell. Once they are open for business, the artists must pay a portion of their proceeds to the organization and they must meet a sales quota in order to be considered for the next year's market. Basically, it's the commercial version of Darwin. It seems harsh, but I'm sure it works. 

Another aspect of holiday markets that didn't occur to me until after I did a little bit of research this morning, is the possible hypocrisy of it all. According to an article on NY Daily News, artists are outraged that they are kicked out of parks like Union Station for selling during the other 11 months because they aren't paying a permit fee to the city. However, due to the inherent fee structure associated with the holiday markets and the income generated by them for the city's parks department, they are allowed to sell during December. Even when the sprawling design of the market can make for hazardous conditions for residents; spilling over into subway entrances and crosswalks. Like most controversies in the city, I was completely unaware that shopping the holiday markets was angering some artists. (This is like that time I bought a magnet at the 9/11 Museum, unaware that most New Yorkers are livid that there's a gift shop on such hallowed ground. And also like that time when I sat a 6-month old Blue down on a name at the 9/11 Memorial so that I could adjust my shirt, which was riding up and becoming increasingly indecent. If I'm in NY, I'm bound to commit some sort of faux pas surrounding a recent controversy.) Essentially, the artists are proclaiming it's a first amendment violation when they are banned from the park the rest of the year and declaring it a hypocrisy that they are allowed to sell only when the city will benefit from it financially. And this is just like every other government red-tape fiasco I've ever seen. Spoiler alert: the government wins. 

After we finished our shopping at the Grand Central Holiday Market, we paused to take in the scene. I don't think I had ever been in Grand Central Station and it's just as busy as every cliche implies. But there are also plenty of people (surely tourists and residents, alike) who stop to appreciate the architecture, decor and timelessness of such an icon. 

 The zodiac is painted on the ceiling of Grand Central Station. Apparently, it's painted backwards and while some attribute it to an accident, the Vanderbilt family declared it intentional; the constellation was meant to be viewed from a more...divine...perspective.
 Pointing to the clock in the center of the station that looks a lot like our clock at Keeneland!


But even busier than the terminal is the food court and restrooms below. I don't know what it was about this trip but I drank an absurd amount of water and was looking for a bathroom every time we stepped indoors. Shana skipped the bathroom break at Grand Central but swore the stalls were clean and the line moved fast. And she was right! While I was doing my thing, Shana and Neal went in search of lunch. There is no shortage of food vendors in the basement of the terminal, but a tourist "must" is Shake Shack. Even residents will go a little out of their way to stand in line for a cheeseburger and fries from this famous spot. 

Shana was squeezing out some ketchup for our hand-cut fries. One order really was big enough for us to share. And the burger was just as good as it looks. Occasionally, I eat something that I can recall and crave months, or even years, later. I had a Hatch chile cheeseburger with chile cheesefries from a dive in Hatch, NM when Neal deployed out of Ft. Bliss, Texas, 7 years ago. I still think about that meal. Shake Shack is a little like that. 

The only downside to dining in the food court at lunch on a Saturday during the Christmas season is the crowd. And, really, you can't blame anyone for having the same phenomenal idea as you, but know that you may have to throw a couple of elbows at your fellow diners if you want to actually sit while you eat. It's a great place to people-watch while dining. Shana noticed a larger-than-average police presence and later learned of a protest that had taken place upstairs right after we left. (The city was still reeling from the choking death of an unarmed, black man and we passed at least two protests during the weekend.) 

Before we headed out, Shana offered up one more secret of Grand Central Station: the "whispering gallery". If you stand in the corner of a pillar between the Main Concourse and Vanderbilt Hall, and the person you are with stands in the opposite corner, with both of you facing the wall, you can whisper to one another and hear each other clear as a bell. The sound of your voice travels up the pillar, across the ceiling of the 2000 square foot chamber and down to the ears of your companion. As there are 4 pillars, 2 couples can do this simultaneously and I'm here to tell you, it works!
No one knows if this little bit of acoustic magic was constructed on purpose or if it just happens to be a result of curved structures and hard surfaces but it's pretty freaking cool and I encourage everyone who passes through to try it once. Yes, you'll look like a tourist, but everyone is doing it so forget about all that for 2 minutes and have a little fun.
If you want to know a few more quirky facts about one of the most famous terminals in the world, this article on Untappedcities.com gives a "Top 10 Secrets of Grand Central Station" and it's worth a quick read. And if you go to Shake Shack, have a burger and shake for me!

Monday, February 2, 2015

On the Fifth Day of Christmas

...my bestie gave to me,
a Rockefeller Center Christmas tree.

Or...at least a good look at it in both the day and night time. We were downtown for a matinee showing of Wicked (which was some of the best theater I've seen in a long time. From the story to the actors to the costumes and set, it was all simply perfect) and decided to swing by Rockefeller Center on our way. We were promised a night viewing, as well, later.

It has never been a tradition of ours to watch the lighting of the Rockefeller Center Christmas tree. We aren't opposed to it, we just don't think about it. Every now and then, during our surfing of channels after Blue goes to bed, we'll stumble across a live event that the rest of the country has probably been glued to for hours. But more times than not, our TV barely moves off the PBS channel. (And really, who can argue with that? A channel that offers Curious George, Downton Abbey, Sherlock Holmes AND Genealogy Roadshow? Does it get any better? As an even more of an aside: my mom retired in November and her retirement party was hosted by one of the partners in her practice with her husband, who just happens to be the Director of Programming for our local PBS station here in Kentucky. I had a total fangirl moment. I think I fell just short of asking him to sign a body part. Nerd, party of 1...over here.) Um...anyway...the lighting of the Rockefeller Center tree has just never been a Christmas thing for me, at least not in the same way as other required watching like White Christmas and the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade. So, while I wanted to see it in person, I was completely unprepared for the towering awesome that is the Rockefeller Center tree.

 I was also somewhat unprepared for the shear number of people who had the same idea.
If you are interested in a few odds-and-ends facts about the Rockefeller Center Christmas tree, check out this list of 18 Things You Didn't Know About the Rockefeller Center Christmas Tree from Thrillist. It's a quick read with tons of interesting tidbits that could win you a couple grand on Jeopardy. The 2014 tree was 90 years old, weighed 13 tons and traveled 155 miles to Manhattan.

If you would like to pay to have your photo taken in front of the tree, there is a handy little booth where a photographer is prepared to take your cash and your photo. It's a lovely shot that includes the trumpeting angels and the tree in the background. We skipped this photo op and just grabbed a couple quick photos of our own, trying to snap over people's heads but under their umbrellas. 

The trumpeting angels flanking each side of the tree are also a Christmas special and simply exquisite, day or night. 
 As I mentioned in a previous post, Shana is taking an online photography course with a company called "iPhotographycourse.com" (for which there is also a Groupon. Do NOT pay the $900. Find the Groupon and pay $50). After seeing her NYC pictures next to mine, I immediately enrolled and began. It's 18 modules that (for me) take about 2 days to complete. If you are my mother, a similar retiree or someone without toddlers in the home, each module takes about 3 hours to complete. 

By night, the tree, illuminated by the solar-powered LED lights and the glow from the little gold guy below, is just as breath-taking. 

Naturally, we needed photographic proof that we were there....y'know, for our senile days which are bound to set in within the next decade. 
 Did I mention the unrelenting rain? It managed to clear up right as our plane was departing for Louisville. (Also, I'm wearing Shana's coat because mine, which was a Goodwill purchase 2 years ago, fell apart on our way to Wicked. Literally, it came apart at the seams. Neal, who has more common sense than me, chose a previously unused coat to bring along on our trip north.)

The angels were pretty spectacular at night, too. 

The lighted draping behind the angel is part of a display projected onto Saks Fifth Avenue, opposite the tree. The light show runs on a continuous loop all day, about every 5 minutes. Shana assumes they cut it off overnight but has never been downtown at that time to verify. The animation is set to music and features the Christmas themes of NYC, such as the Rockettes. 


The light show only lasts a couple of minutes and it's easy to catch multiple times if you're strolling around Rockefeller Center away. My only tip is to not stop in the middle of the sidewalk to watch. Not only are you an annoying SOB in everyone's way, but you are probably more vulnerable to thievery as your mind is not on your money. We backed up against a building across the street and huddled together (which provides protection against pickpockets and cold, whipping winds).

One of the items on my long-expired 101 list (I'm working on a new one because my current list is out-of-date and, quite honestly, includes tasks that are just never gonna happen) was to ice skate at Rockefeller Center
However...it is $27 per person to skate on this ice. And the line...oh...the line. It stretched up the stairs and around the corner of Rockefeller Center. They send out groups of X number of people at a time and you can skate for something like 15 or 20 minutes. So, you could easily be waiting 2+ hours to skate, especially at Christmas. You can purchase a VIP package, though, that allows you to skip the line entirely and go straight to the ice. That's $60 per person and includes a 90 minute skating session. Besides the fact that I could buy a lot with $120, I would also not be able to walk for a week after skating for 90 minutes. And it was raining. There is another ice skating rink not far from Rockefeller Center called Bryant Park. It's more affordable and more locally known. That was on our list but we skipped it because of the rain. I'm OK with not skating in Rockefeller Center. That to-do has no place on my next list. 

Well, we're almost halfway there! I fully intend to be done by St. Patrick's Day!